It’s the road to the west. The A4 out of London heads towards the west. It’s younger but bigger brother the M4 motorway goes the same way. Going the same way too is the Great Western railway and before that a major waterway, a canal. I guess the ancient roads predate the lot of them given that east-west traffic is an important part of English history. Certainly, the Romans went that way.
I now live at what is roughly the halfway point between London and the west. It’s where what is largely a level route from London starts to rise at a slow pace. That climb made linking rivers, most particularly the London Thames and the river Avon in the west, a challenge. The incentives were evident. So, much potential for trade. Moving heavy commodities around. Canals are truly visionary engineering infrastructure and now an inheritance that’s much treasured.
For people who like to walk, like me, canal towpaths[1] provide flat route between towns. A direct waterside route that wanders through lush countryside. Yesterday, I did the 15km between Newbury and Hungerford. Along that stretch, the Kennet & Avon Canal raises about 150 feet but it’s almost unnoticeable. The main signs are the difference between the fast-flowing waters of the river Kennet and the sober slow canal. A littering of canal locks and small brick-built bridges are a feature too.
The Kennet & Avon Canal was constructed between 1795 and 1810. It was eventually killed-off as a commercial enterprise by the construction of the Great Western railway. Being cheaper and faster along the iron road, transport of goods by water couldn’t compete. It’s in this modern time that the canal was restored. It’s been working again for the last 30 years. Now, it’s a centre of leisure pursuits, small businesses and alternative lifestyles.
The canal’s path follows the River Kennet and its narrowing flood plain. I found looking at how the waterflow is controlled by sluice gates and weirs a fascinating part of the walk. Ambling along the canal’s towpath is a great way to venture into the Berkshire countryside. There are a couple of points where the path changes sides and it’s a bit soggy in one or two places but overall, it’s relatively easy walking.
I did see an Otter on the opposite bank. It was a fleeting glimpse. He, or she, slinked away almost before I realised what I was looking at. Quite different from noisy ducks this Otter made virtually no sound or ripples on the water.
Dotted along the canal near bridges, decaying concrete World War II-era pillboxes are a reminder that this would have been a defensive line if Britain had ever been invaded.
The walk took me under 4 hours. I was exceedingly fortunate with the weather on the day. A cool breeze and intermittent sunshine. Not bad for November.
John Vincent 