Exploring a Riverside

Riverside walks can be pleasant ways of spending a sunny spring evening. That’s what I did on Friday. Sun shining with a cool breeze sweeping through the trees. Underfoot even the unmade-up paths were dry, which is testament to the rainless weather of recent weeks. Even so, the riverbank showed signs of the flooding of the winter.

Reading is a town[1]. It’s England’s largest town. Now, I didn’t know that until I looked it up. The largest English town that I’ve been familiar with over the years is Crawley in Sussex. I think of that as a large town but it’s less than half the size of Reading. It’s the railway that makes Reading. Reading railway station was the last stop on the Great Western Railway (GWR)[2] when it was first opened in 1840. After that the railway forged west to be what we know now as the main thoroughfare across southern England.

Reading town has a long history. That’s no surprise given its position on the river Thames. It’s where the river Kennet, the canal and the river Thames meet. An obvious place for trading since Roman times. It’s a commercial town. Glass sided office blocks and Victorian brick work. For all that it doesn’t stand out as an architectural masterpiece.

Another surprise for me was leaning that town twinning is alive and well. That Reading in twined with Düsseldorf in Germany. A city more than twice the size of Reading. In fact, until this last year, I’ve been more familiar with Düsseldorf.

Our walk ended at The Fishermans Cottage[3]. I’m happy to recommend this small riverside pub.

From there, on the walk back to the railway station I did see the one of the more notable sites in Reading. That’s the Banksy’s Great Escape artwork[4] on Reading prison wall. Oscar Wilde spent time in that jail. The artwork has got a Perspex cover to keep the pigeons off. And anyone else who might think of spraying it.

That reminds me. It’s not unusual to have a phobia about dogs. Although dog owners mostly have a difficulty in getting their heads around the fact. On my riverside walk dogs were not the problem. Amongst our small group of walkers had a different phobia.

As we got to the confluence of the Thames and the Kennet, we discovered the phobia of one of our walkers. Alfred Hitchcock would approve. The Kennet’s tow path attracts Swans. These Swans are attracted by people with food. With no inclination to get out of the gently flowing river these lazy Swans wait for passers-by to pay attention to their needs. That’s no problem.

It’s called Ornithophobia. A fear of birds. Birds flock when free food is on offer. The worst of these can be thought of as flying rats. I talk of pigeons. That how I think of pigeons. Tom Lehrer[5] had the right idea about these annoying birdies. Frightening them away, at least for a moment, cleared our pathway. Like a flash they returned as we strolled into the pub.


[1] https://www.reading.gov.uk/

[2] https://www.gwr.com/stations-and-destinations/travel-inspiration/blogs/history-of-the-railways

[3] https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g186363-d7363678-Reviews-The_Fishermans_Cottage-Reading_Berkshire_England.html

[4] https://banksyexplained.com/create-escape-march-2021/

[5] https://youtu.be/yhuMLpdnOjY

Exploring the Kennet & Avon Canal

It’s the road to the west. The A4 out of London heads towards the west. It’s younger but bigger brother the M4 motorway goes the same way. Going the same way too is the Great Western railway and before that a major waterway, a canal. I guess the ancient roads predate the lot of them given that east-west traffic is an important part of English history. Certainly, the Romans went that way.

I now live at what is roughly the halfway point between London and the west. It’s where what is largely a level route from London starts to rise at a slow pace. That climb made linking rivers, most particularly the London Thames and the river Avon in the west, a challenge. The incentives were evident. So, much potential for trade. Moving heavy commodities around. Canals are truly visionary engineering infrastructure and now an inheritance that’s much treasured.

For people who like to walk, like me, canal towpaths[1] provide flat route between towns. A direct waterside route that wanders through lush countryside. Yesterday, I did the 15km between Newbury and Hungerford. Along that stretch, the Kennet & Avon Canal raises about 150 feet but it’s almost unnoticeable. The main signs are the difference between the fast-flowing waters of the river Kennet and the sober slow canal. A littering of canal locks and small brick-built bridges are a feature too.

The Kennet & Avon Canal was constructed between 1795 and 1810. It was eventually killed-off as a commercial enterprise by the construction of the Great Western railway. Being cheaper and faster along the iron road, transport of goods by water couldn’t compete. It’s in this modern time that the canal was restored. It’s been working again for the last 30 years. Now, it’s a centre of leisure pursuits, small businesses and alternative lifestyles.

The canal’s path follows the River Kennet and its narrowing flood plain. I found looking at how the waterflow is controlled by sluice gates and weirs a fascinating part of the walk. Ambling along the canal’s towpath is a great way to venture into the Berkshire countryside. There are a couple of points where the path changes sides and it’s a bit soggy in one or two places but overall, it’s relatively easy walking.

I did see an Otter on the opposite bank. It was a fleeting glimpse. He, or she, slinked away almost before I realised what I was looking at. Quite different from noisy ducks this Otter made virtually no sound or ripples on the water. 

Dotted along the canal near bridges, decaying concrete World War II-era pillboxes are a reminder that this would have been a defensive line if Britain had ever been invaded.

The walk took me under 4 hours. I was exceedingly fortunate with the weather on the day. A cool breeze and intermittent sunshine. Not bad for November.


[1] https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/things-to-do/walking